Organic, biodynamic, natural: understanding terms too often conflated
A brief reminder is useful here: organic, biodynamic and natural wines refer to distinct realities. Organic viticulture excludes synthetic inputs within a certified and controlled framework. Biodynamics goes further, treating the vine as a living organism and seeking to strengthen both soil vitality and the expression of each plot. So-called natural wines, often made from organically or biodynamically grown grapes, do not fall within a single regulatory framework. These are three distinct approaches, yet all are driven by the same ambition: to reveal the identity of the terroir with minimal intervention.
Visionary pioneers, now benchmarks
One fact remains too little known: a great many of today's most prestigious wines are now organically certified. It is something our members have discovered during private visits to the estates. In Bordeaux, Château Smith Haut Lafitte was long met with scepticism when Daniel and Florence Cathiard committed the estate to organic and then biodynamic conversion. Today, that vision is acclaimed around the world. At Château Cheval Blanc, biodiversity plays a central role, with hedgerows, fruit trees and ecological corridors weaving through the plots.
A matter of philosophy
In Champagne too, the movement is becoming increasingly clear, sometimes in particularly assertive ways. The work of Anselme Selosse is a case in point. Often described as a sorcerer, he follows his own philosophy, that of a "nature tax", leading him beyond certification towards a form of permaculture, accepting the loss of part of his harvest in the process. His son Guillaume continues this quest for parcel-by-parcel expression, far removed from any kind of aromatic standardisation. The approach has paid off: the champagnes of Domaine Jacques Selosse are among the most highly regarded in the world.
Through the experiences curated by BARNES Fine Wines, one conviction emerges: beyond tasting a great label, sharing a great wine means experiencing a sense of history and forging a connection with the passionate individuals and families behind it, but also, and above all, with a terroir.
Great wines are now leading the way in the shift towards organic and more thoughtful viticulture. That is the view of Louis de Truchis, Managing Director of BARNES Fine Wines. Whether certified organic, biodynamic or more radical approaches such as permaculture, these three distinct paths share the same ambition: to reveal the identity of the terroir with minimal intervention.
Visionary winemakers embody this silent revolution. Like a sorcerer, one follows his own philosophy, that of a "nature tax", leading him beyond certification towards a form of permaculture, accepting the loss of part of his harvest in the process, in exchange for the most authentic parcel-level expression.